Ingredient Deep Dive: Hyaluronic Acid

Though collagen and elastin are commonly discussed when it comes to maintaining healthy, youthful skin, there is another naturally occurring ingredient that plays a big part. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a superstar, and here’s everything you need to know.

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Though collagen and elastin are commonly discussed when it comes to maintaining healthy, youthful skin, there is another naturally occurring ingredient that plays a big part. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a superstar, and here’s everything you need to know.

What is Hyaluronic Acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a water-binding molecule, capable of holding up to 1000x its own weight. Despite its name, HA is not really an acid at all. In its true form, it has a pH level only slightly lower than neutral. So it is technically acidic, but you can think of it as a sugar molecule. HA has a thick consistency – similar to jelly – and fills up the space between collagen and elastin fibres. Where there are optimum hyaluronic acid levels, collagen within the skin can thrive and the skin itself can remain smooth, supple, and hydrated. Interestingly, almost 50% of the body’s HA content is in the skin, further proving why it is a must have ingredient. It can also be found in the eyes and joints, to help with lubrication.

What Should My Skincare Labels Say?

As a favourable skincare ingredient, don’t be surprised if Hyaluronic Acid appears on your labels as simply as that. However, it could also show up as ‘hyaluronan’ or even ‘sodium hyaluronate’ so keep an eye out for those too. These terms are generally interchangeable, so don’t worry which is present in your skincare. Sodium hyaluronate is worded slightly differently as it is simply the form that HA takes once water is added.

How Do I Use Hyaluronic Acid?

If you are using a topical HA product, such as a serum, you should use it directly after cleansing and toning. Preferably while your skin is still damp. After a few moments, you can lock it in by applying moisturiser on top. This is an important step, as dry air and low humidity can affect the way the serum works. If you do not apply a moisturiser and the HA can not pull water from the air, it will attract it from your skin instead. This will have the opposite affect than you intended, and dry out your skin. If your hyaluronic acid is in your moisturiser, as it is sometimes, you don’t have to worry about this. Simply apply as usual.

The Science Behind HA

So – why is hyaluronic acid so beneficial? Let’s take a look at the science. As a humectant molecule, hyaluronic acid resides in the epidermis between cells, and lures water into the skin. As well as enhanced hydration, HA has a range of positive effects, contributing to ingredient absorption, reduced inflammation, increased healing and communication between cells. Hyaluronic Acid is naturally produced in the body, therefore, it is safe for use and incredibly effective for all skin types – with no evidence of any side effects.

What Do I Need to Know About Molecular Size?

The molecular size of hyaluronic acid is important to understand so you know exactly how the ingredient is working for your skin. When HA has a high molecular weight, the particles do not penetrate the skin. Instead, they sit on the surface, attracting water and hydrating the outer layer. Hyaluronic acid with a low molecular weight has much smaller particles, capable of absorbing into the skin down to the stratum granulosum layer, to hydrate and plump from within. Any HA below the stratum granulosum (third layer of skin) is naturally synthesised by the body, as no topical product currently has the ability to penetrate that deep.

What Is The Lifespan of Hyaluronic Acid?

Despite its importance, HA has a lifespan within the body of less than 24 hours due to the natural turnover process of the skin. Approximately 30-50% of hyaluronic acid is broken down and replaced every 24 hours. In our 20s, metabolic activity within the body slows down, and hyaluronic acid production slows with it. Unfortunately, hyaluronidase levels (the enzyme that breaks down HA) remain consistent. Therefore, as we age, the body does not replace HA as quickly or completely as before. Sun damage and inflammation within the body also contribute to the degradation of hyaluronic acid within the body. When HA is lost, the plumpness, firmness and hydration of the skin are affected.

How Do I Boost HA Levels In My Skin? 

As described, there are many detrimental effects of reduced levels of HA in the skin. Due to the short lifespan, continually boosting HA levels is vital in maintaining healthy skin. This can be done through topical products, such as serums and creams, oral supplements, and invasive or non-invasive skin treatments. At SkinBase, we’ve got multiple options for you.

SkinBase Hydro

Hydro is the latest treatment from SkinBase, and it is all about the ingredients! Designed to cleanse, exfoliate, purify, hydrate and revitalise the skin in a single multi-step treatment. SkinBase Hydro involves a choice of three serums, to personalise the treatment to your specific skin concerns. The renewing serum contains powerful ingredients, such as Hyaluronic Acid, that improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while also helping to hydrate the skin and reduce inflammation. The serum is applied using a vacuum action, so the HA and the other active ingredients are delivered more effectively into the skin, as the vacuum helps to enhance absorption and penetration. The vacuum action also stimulates blood flow and lymphatic drainage, promoting detoxification and improving circulation. Find out more about SkinBase Hydro in the treatments hub.

SkinBase Collagen Lift 

Collagen Lift is a non-invasive radio frequency treatment that uses heat to trigger fibroblasts to produce more hyaluronic acid, as well as collagen and elastin fibres. For clients in their 20s, the Collagen Lift treatment is perfect to maintain youthful skin and keep HA levels high. For those older, who may be experiencing the effects of reduced HA, the treatment will smooth, lift and firm. The radio frequency energy increases HA levels while reversing detrimental symptoms. Find out more about the Collagen Lift treatment here.


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Rebecca Willshee Nail and Beauty Specialist

Testimonial: “JC was so low, suicidal at points. Sore, red, angry, his skin was awful, we had tried everything and doctors you name it. We reached out to Becky, who was wonderful. My son was quiet and withdrawn, lacked confidence and self esteem, and locked himself away from the world. Becky booked us in for a consultation to discuss different options of treatments and we decided the new hydro treatment would be the best option. We started the course and JC was nervous but Becky was great with him talking him through everything, step by step! As we went each time JC’s skin got better and better, but also the difference in him was huge, he was gaining confidence, shoulders back, head held high. We have watched his skin change from this red, aggressive, angry skin that was sore, acne was debilitating to him but now he is confident, holds his head up high and has even got his first job! We are so proud. When we met Becky I felt confident she would help us get his skin better and back on track but what has actually happened is skin looks amazing but to see our son gain confidence has been the biggest win! Teens often get pushed aside, put on string meds and told “it’s just your age” but this isn’t what they want to hear, but The SkinBase treatments Becky has done has changed his life! We cannot thank you enough Becky! JC is continuing with the treatments as it still gets the odd breakouts but the scarring is still improving week in week out. The hydro Facial is just amazing and we cannot recommend it enough and of course Becky and her passion for skin and helping people is wonderful!”