Mandelic acid (MA) is a gentle AHA derived from bitter almonds (or synthetically created) that can treat acne, fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation and uneven skin. MA gets its name from the German word for almond – ‘mandel’. Despite its gentler approach, MA maintains the same benefits as other AHAs, such as glycolic acid and lactic acid.
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How Does Mandelic Acid Work?
Mandelic acid has exfoliating properties, and works to loosen the bonds between cells. Therefore, it exfoliates away dead, dull cells and reveals the fresh, healthy skin below. If you have a nut allergy, it is best to avoid mandelic acid.
What Do I Need To Know About Molecular Size?
Mandelic acid gets its reputation as a gentle AHA due to its molecular size. It is much larger than other AHA’s (twice as big as glycolic acid!) so it is absorbed into the skin much slower, and remains on the skin for longer. Therefore, it is the perfect choice for all skin types, as it is even suitable for sensitive and mature skin.
Despite the larger molecular size, mandelic acid has a unique benefit when it comes to exfoliating the skin. AHA’s, e.g. lactic acid, are generally water-soluble, so they work on the skin but do not work within it. Mandelic acid, on the other hand, is able to ‘transform’ as it penetrates the skin, becoming more oil-soluble. So, MA is able to work within the pores too, unclogging the build up of skin debris and oils, and helping to minimise acne breakouts.
Benefits of Mandelic Acid
Mandelic Acid has a variety of benefits for all skin types.
- As an exfoliant, MA enhances the cell turnover process, helping to smooth textured skin and visibly reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- MA stimulates collagen production, whilst also promoting firmness and elasticity, to support the ‘scaffolding’ of the skin.
- As an oil-soluble ingredient, MA works deep within the skin to unclog pores and minimise acne breakouts.
- MA also minimises the occurrence of pigmentation by preventing melanin production and treats dark spots by brightening the skin.
- Research suggests mandelic acid is particularly suited to those with a skin type 4-6 on the fitzpatrick scale, as it does not kill melanocytes, and therefore does not exacerbate discolouration concerns.
How Do I Use Mandelic Acid?
Though MA is proven to be the most gentle AHA, you should still take care when incorporating it into your skincare routine. Your routine prior to using AHA’s should already meet the basic needs of your skin. It should be cleansed, toned, moisturised and protected with SPF daily. If you have a consistent routine in place, your skin is more likely to respond to new ingredients better, without irritation. To start with mandelic acid, use it once or twice a week, and see how your skin responds. Then, you can build up to using it daily. A side effect of using MA (or any AHA) is increased sun sensitivity. So, if you’re not already using a daily SPF product, now is the time to begin. The SkinBase Daily Repair and Protect cream is an excellent way to keep your skin moisturised and protected in one easy step.
Exfoliation is key to get right. Over-exfoliation is incredibly detrimental to your skin barrier. If you would prefer to achieve healthy skin without the stress, you can leave it to the professionals and incorporate the new SkinBase Hydro treatment into your routine instead. Find your nearest therapist here.
What Should My Skincare Label Say?
Mandelic acid will often show up on your skincare label just like that. It is important to note it is also known as mandelate, alpha-Hydroxybenzeneacetic acid and 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylacetic acid.
What % Should I Use?
For daily use, products containing 10% MA are recommended. The pH should range between 3 and 4, as it is an acid.
SkinBase Hydro
SkinBase Hydro is the latest treatment from SkinBase, designed to revitalise the skin with an infusion of powerful ingredients. The Hydro consists of a chemical peel, followed by a serum infusion. The peel is a great first step in achieving glowing, healthy skin and contains mandelic acid, as well as a range of other fantastic ingredients that pair well with MA, such as salicylic acid. As discussed, mandelic acid is great for acne-prone skin, pigmentation issues and fine lines and wrinkles, and there is a Hydro treatment for each of these concerns.
Treating Acne
Acne and breakouts can be triggered by a range of causes. Dead skin cells, oils, skin debris, dirt, and bacteria can clog pores and cause inflammation, resulting in acne symptoms. Mandelic acid has a positive effect on sebum which is ideal for oily, acne-prone skin. MA also exfoliates the pores, unclogging any build up, reducing congestion and minimising the risk of acne.
SkinBase Clarifying Hydro Serum
The Hydro peel will be followed up by the clarifying serum when treating acne. The peel contains mandelic acid to clear out pores, reduce inflammation and manage sebum production. The serum will infuse powerful actives onto the skin, including niacinamide, citric acid and arnica montana flower extract, to clear and calm your complexion.
Treating Pigmentation
MA uses a combination of its melanin inhibiting benefits and skin renewal properties to help reduce dark spots, hyperpigmentation & post acne marks. Remember, you should use SPF daily to protect your skin, and this is especially vital when having treatments to combat pigmentation issues.
SkinBase Brightening Hydro Serum
The Hydro peel containing mandelic acid will be followed up by the brightening serum when treating pigmentation, for added benefits to the skin. The brightening serum contains a range of powerful ingredients to help your skin glow, including vitamin C and kojic acid.
Treating Fine Lines & Wrinkles
The skin cell turnover process slows down as we age. This means that dead skin cells remain on the surface for longer, causing a dull, aged appearance. Mandelic acid speeds up this process, allowing your complexion to remain smooth and youthful for longer.
SkinBase Renewing Hydro Serum
The Hydro peel containing mandelic acid will be followed up by the renewing serum when treating fine lines and wrinkles on mature skin. The combination of the peel and serum will ensure a complete skin renewal. The serum contains a range of ingredients that are incredibly effective when it comes to signs of ageing skin, including hyaluronic acid, lactic acid and hydrolysed soybean extract.
